Top Quality Restoration, Guaranteed Results
We do much more than typical 'headlight restoration'.
Our precision resurfacing process uses a professional, hard-learned set of skills that are light years beyond DIY kits, TikTok videos, or your first time refinishing anything. It's a proven method that requires zero bumper removal, avoids risking your paint finish with power tools, and maintains your factory-tight bumper and headlight housing alignment.
We beat our competitors’ results in three ways
Full oxidation removal with a special low-VOC chemical treatment, which eliminates a contamination cycle when we begin resurfacing.
Craftsman-level finesse. We apply to 2-4 different sanding grits and 12-24 passes over each curve, plane and edge---by hand---with a proprietary wet-sand method
Actual surface replacement, not just a shiny top coating, chemically bonded permanently to the lens itself—unlike clear coats, there is no additional 'layer' to be compromised like with clear coats.
This Subaru had heavy oxidation all over and a few small heat bubbles and micro cracks, which come from excess heat inside the sealed housing. Thankfully the seals were intact. The cracks and bubbles can't be removed, but with enough elbow grease and hand finessing of the heavily baked lenses, even 18-year-old OEM headlights like these can be restored to factory clarity through our detailed resurfacing and final treatment.
We successfully removed all oxidation by stripping then applying six wet-sanding stages, three grit levels, and hundreds of passes. The failed original top coat has been replaced with a chemically cross-linked, permanently bonded new surface. Despite the minor heat defects in the body of the lenses, we were able to restore perfect clarity and brightness to these OEM headlights. See if you can spot the micro cracks!
You can do nothing at all... They won’t just keep getting slightly harder to see through—it’s progressive. Light is heat, and all that extra trapped heat inside a sealed (for now) housing leads to cracks and bubbles—and then the seals fail—so you get water intrusion—and then you’ll be out a lot more money; either in the reduction of your car's value or the much higher true cost of replacement. If the damage isn't bad yet, this is the perfect time to stop it, and the cheapest it will ever be to do so.
You essentially have four remaining paths, and some have hidden costs. Choose wisely.
Option #1: Buy a DIY Headlight Polishing Kit
It probably comes with a nifty drill attachment and some polish. What you don’t get is chemical stripping of the oxidation, precision anything, or a replacement for the deteriorated OEM protective coating—the current absence of which is the reason your headlights are foggy. You also get the chance to cause scarring on the plastic from a reliably imprecise power-tool attachment.
Want to spray a 2K clear coat? Get your PPE, your paint booth set up, and get ready for inferior results that eventually just peel away. Even if you have pro-grade products, you are still in for a learning curve when it comes to sanding polycarbonate effectively without winding up with scratches and defects.
Option #2: The Budget Replacement
It's tempting to grab those $200 aftermarket housings online and spend a Saturday DIY-ing the install. But here is the reality: you aren't just fighting a "cheap" non-OEM substitute that will likely fit poorly, yellow in 12-18 months or less due to inferior construction and probably no protective coating at all—you are fighting every ten-year-old plastic fastener on the front end of the car. Then you have to realign them, and this is a super-precise process to get right.
On a decade-old Impreza, those clips have undergone thousands of heat cycles—they aren't flexible anymore, they’re brittle. Trying to "DIY" this usually ends with a handful of snapped plastic pins and a bumper that won't align quite right, no matter how hard you try. Then you need to aim the light beams—see the section below, it’s a science and physics lesson in itself. One degree off, and at 200ft, your low beams will be as blinding as your 'brights', and your high beams in the trees.
Summary of Costs:
Aftermarket Lights: $200
Trim Tools: $40
OEM Pop-Pins: $30
Total: $270 + half a day
Option #3: OEM Quality
This is the "gold standard" for parts, but it’s a massive financial commitment. If you take it to a dealership or a shop, you’re potentially looking at a $1,000 bill. For a car you’re trying to maintain sensibly and keep on the road for years to come, that’s a very heavy "perfection tax."
Summary of Costs:
OEM Lights: $600
Labor, 2hrs x $160/hr
Total: $820 + drop off & pickup time
Option #4: Precision Resurfacing
This is the balanced, logical approach. We keep your high-quality factory housings on the car and intact, avoiding the invasive mechanical risks of a bumper drop, then we strip, hand-sand and hone the lenses to smooth, granular perfection with multiple grits and hundreds of careful strokes.
This is more like careful machining than any polish-type process. We do it by hand because that’s what a pro-grade finish actually requires---and it avoids damaging paint or the lenses themselves. We then seal in all that elbow grease and craftsman-level finesse with pro-grade chemistry, a molecular bond that matches the clarity, hardness and durability of a new OEM part.
Summary of Costs:
Light Damage: $79*
Medium Damage: $89*
Heavy Damage: $99*
*First 100 Customers!
Still Want to DIY it? Here's a detailed, Third Generation Subaru Impreza- specific headlight replacement guide so you don't go in blind... Really!