Caption:   Complete 2008–2011 Subaru Impreza headlight replacement manual.
Learn the "tilt-and-pull" method to avoid full bumper removal and how to protect the fragile plastic adjustment gears. 

The 2008 Subaru Impreza belongs to the Third Generation (GE/GH/GR/GV), also known as the "Stink Eye" era. This specific year is the "bridge" between the older bolt-on style and the modern trapped-bumper style.  While the 2008 model is significantly easier than the 2012–2016 models, the "plastic gear" warning is critical for this specific year because Subaru introduced a new, fragile vertical adjustment system that year.

2008–2011 Subaru Impreza: Headlight Replacement DIY

The "Bridge Era" Instruction Manual

The 2008 Impreza is unique. Unlike the later 2012 models, you can technically pull the headlights without removing the entire front bumper, but it requires "finessing" the plastic brackets. This is a 2–3 hour job for a patient DIYer.

PRO-SHOP REALITY CHECK: Industry labor guides (Mitchell1 / ProDemand) bill this job at 1.4 to 1.8 hours. The main hurdle for the 2008 model is the Hidden Side Bracket, which is a white plastic piece that often shatters if you try to pull the light forward too fast.

⚠️ THE THREE CRITICAL RISKS

1. The Brittle Gear Trap: The 2008 model introduced a plastic-toothed wheel for vertical aiming. Unlike the heavy metal bolts of the 2005 era, these teeth will strip instantly if you use a power driver. Once stripped, the light is permanently aimed at the ground.

2. The "Pop-Pin" Avalanche: The 2008 uses a high number of different-sized plastic clips. If you mix up the "long-neck" clips with the "short-neck" ones, your bumper will develop a high-speed vibration (the "Subaru Shiver").

3. Fender-Edge Scuffing: To remove the light without dropping the bumper, you must tilt the housing. This nearly always results in the sharp back-edge of the headlight gouging the paint on your fender. Masking tape is mandatory.

🛠️ TOOLS YOU WILL NEED

• 10mm Socket & Ratchet: For the primary mounting bolts.

• Long Phillips Screwdriver (8"+): Necessary to reach the "Sneaky" adjustment wheel from above.

• Painter’s Masking Tape: To protect your fender edges during the "tilt-and-pull" maneuver.

• Replacement "Bumper Bracket Screws": Subaru Part #010006167. These small lower screws are often rusted solid and will snap upon first turn.

📋 STEP-BY-STEP TECHNICAL PROCESS

Phase 1: The "Partial" Release

1. Grille Extraction: Remove the four "T-head" clips on top of the grille. Use a flathead to release the two hidden side-locks. Set the grille aside.

2. Bumper Mobility: You do not need to drop the whole bumper. Remove the two clips on the very top edges of the bumper cover to allow the plastic to flex outward about 3 inches.

3. Tape the Body: Apply three layers of masking tape to the metal fender where it meets the headlight.

Phase 2: The "Tilt-and-Pull" Swap

4. Top Bolts: Remove the two 10mm bolts visible on the top radiator support.

5. The "Hidden" Side Bolt: Reach into the gap you created by flexing the bumper. There is a 10mm bolt tucked into a white plastic bracket. Do not lose this bolt in the bumper belly!

6. The Extraction: Pull the headlight outward to release the two locator pins on the side, then tilt the unit upward and slide it over the bumper lip.

7. Harness Release: The 2008 wiring is tight. Unplug the H11 (Low) and 9005 (High) connectors. Push the center tab firmly—do not pry with a screwdriver.

8. The Swap: Slide the new unit in, seating the lower white bracket first.

Phase 3: Reassembly

9. Bolt Order: Start with the "Hidden" side bolt first to align the unit. If you do the top bolts first, the side bolt will never line up.

10. Clip Restore: Reinstall the grille and the bumper-edge clips.

📐 THE DEEP DIVE: OPTICAL AIMING (THE GEAR SYSTEM)

The 2008 adjustment system is "gear-driven." You don't turn a bolt; you turn a screw that spins a plastic cog.

I. The "Perfect" Environment

• Distance: Exactly 25 feet from the wall.

• Level: The 2008 suspension is very soft; ensure the car is empty and on a flat garage floor.

II. The Adjustment (The "Sneaky" Screw)

• The Access Hole: Look at the top of the metal radiator support. There is a small hole that allows a long Phillips screwdriver to slide down into the headlight’s white plastic gear.

• The Motion: Turning the screwdriver spins the gear. Go slow. You should see the beam move roughly 1/4 inch on the wall for every full turn of the screwdriver.

• The Target: Your "cutoff" line should be 2 inches below the center-line of the headlight lens.

III. The Fragility Warning (Accuracy Check)

• Manual Only: Never use a drill on the 2008 adjusters. The plastic gears are nearly 20 years old and will disintegrate under the torque of a power tool.

✨ THE BETTER WAY: ZERO CALIBRATION REQUIRED

Precision Resurfacing is the only way to protect these aging plastic gears. By keeping your original 2008 factory housings, you never have to touch the fragile adjustment mechanism or risk snapping the lower white mounting brackets. We restore your original Japanese lenses to 100% clarity, preserving the factory-perfect aim that Subaru intended.